Savannah Tours

A Chem Chem experience

A Lodge with eight tented suites

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In July, our Managing Director Cliff D’Souza visited Chem Chem close to Tarangire National Park to learn about their three beautiful and tranquil properties and unique safari experiences which Savannah Tours is now delighted to offer to its guests as part of their safari journey in Tanzania.

About Chem Chem

Chem Chem was created by Nicolas and Fabia, two Europeans with a mutual passion for the African bush and protecting wildlife. They worked together with the Tanzanian National Parks Authority to create the Chem Chem – Burunge Wildlife Management Area, a former migratory corridor between the Tarangire and Lake Manyara National Parks, which had been destroyed by illegal logging and poaching. In 2008, they founded the Chem Chem Association to restore the vegetation and wildlife of this area and recreate the migratory corridor to allow animals to move freely along the ancient routes. They then created three small and exceptionally beautiful safari lodges and camps to offer visitors access to this area and generate income to protect the land and its wildlife and support local Maasai and Barabaig communities to live sustainably. All three properties are managed and run by Tanzanian staff, most of whom come from the local area.

Arrival at Chem Chem Lodge

I spent two nights at Chem Chem Lodge, the first property Nicolas and Fabia created, close to Lake Manyara. The Lodge has eight tented suites – including one family suite – each secluded in the trees and with a beautiful view across the savannah towards Lake Manyara. My guest and I were warmly greeted at the entrance by Elisabeth, the camp manager, our guide Majuto, and our hostess Holiness. We were then given a brief tour of the camp before being shown to our tent, which we reached by elevated wooden walkways through the bush. The description ‘tented suite’ is very appropriate for the spacious accommodation with its beautiful interior design, complete with outdoor shower and deck overlooking the savannah. Every need has been carefully anticipated so guests can stay in tranquil comfort surrounded by nature. We immediately felt nurtured and spent a couple of hours relaxing on the deck simply watching giraffe, impala and wildebeest wander by.

Game drives at Chem Chem

We went on our first game drive the first evening and it was a fantastic experience. Chem Chem – Burunge Wildlife Management Area is essentially a private concession which means that only vehicles from Chem Chem properties are in allowed in this large area. We only saw two other vehicles during our three-hour game drive and spent most of the time driving alone through this wonderful wilderness. There is plenty of game and, unlike in the national parks, the vehicles can go off-road, which gives opportunity to get really close to the animals. After spending time watching the grazing herds or wildebeest, zebra, impala and Thomson’s gazelle and observing a herd of elephants drinking at a waterhole, we spent time parked in the middle of a pride of lions, stretched out lazily after an earlier kill. My guest was really interested in the birdlife and our guide Majuto showed incredible knowledge about dozens of birds we spotted. 

 

It was as we were driving for our sundowner, that our guide Majuto received news that some cheetahs had killed a zebra. With the flexibility to stay in the park beyond dusk, he drove us back to the site of the kill where we witnessed a truly incredible sight. With only two other Chem Chem vehicles, we all watched quietly as three cheetahs ate their kill, one cheetah stood on watch, and the pride of lions we had seen earlier started to move in on the cheetahs. We then witnessed a dramatic standoff followed by the male cheetah trying to intimidate the lions, but then being chased by a make lion across the savannah. The lions then chased the cheetahs off their territory one by one. However, the lions had not scented the kill and, as it grew dark, we followed the lions through the bush and made our way back to the lodge, wondering if the cheetahs might try to return to their kill later. A rare and unique experience!

Spending time at Chem Chem Lodge

Chem Chem Lodge is a wonderful place to relax surrounded by nature. In addition to the secluded, beautiful, tented lodges, there are multiple spaces to relax pretty much in complete privacy, given there are a limited number of guests. During the day, you can relax on the comfortable loungers at the lovely pool or in one of the multiple lounges, the library or other seating areas in the shade or sun. At mealtimes, and after a drink by the firepit before dinner, our hostess Holiness showed us to one of several private dining spaces overlooking the Savannah. The cuisine at the Lodge was truly magnificent – delicious, healthy, and creative – paralleling that of fine restaurants. There is also a wide range of alcoholic and non-alcoholic drinks including the delicious ‘sleep well’ shot offered after dinner.

Chem Chem’s signature experiences

Each guest at a Chem Chem property is treated to a range of inclusive signature experiences. Depending on the length of your stay, this can include a bush breakfast, sundowner, and/or dinner, a walking safari, a sunset hill climb, and a visit to one of the local villages to learn about the way of life of the Maasai and Barabaig communities. You can also supplement these with additional experiences including a hot air balloon safari and a trip to Lake Manyara National Park.

Children are also thoughtfully catered for with opportunities to learn bush skills from Maasai, cook Swahili food and engage in safari-themed arts and crafts. Our favourite was the silent bush walk with our guide Majuto and a Maasai named Poshi. We walked slowly and mindfully through the savannah just observing and listening to the wildlife around us – an incredible immersive experience, topped off by a bush breakfast where breakfast was cooked for us under the trees.

Little Chem Chem and Forest Chem Chem

We also visited Chem Chem’s other two properties to explore what they offer to guests. Whilst they offer the same attentive and personalized ‘slow safari’ experience to their guests, each property is unique. Little Chem Chem has 6 luxury tents set amongst ancient baobab trees overlooking Lake Burungi. It has an atmosphere of a traditional bush camp, but with subtle luxury and impeccable service. We were served a wonderful lunch under a huge umbrella on the edge of the savannah. Forest Chem Chem is a completely private property in the midst of the forest. It was created for exclusive use of one family or group of friends. It has four vintage style safari tents, including one family tent and a wonderful staff there to cater to your specific needs and create a tailored safari experience for your group.

My personal recommendations

I recommend a stay of three nights at a Chem Chem property so you have the time to unwind and to savour all that these beautiful, peaceful camps have to offer as well as to view the abundant, fascinating wildlife in their Wildlife Management Area. If you are visiting Zanzibar after your safari experience, then I recommend you consider starting at Chem Chem so you can relax and slow your pace for a few days before proceeding to the Ngorongoro Crater and perhaps the Serengeti. If you are spending your holiday on the mainland only, I recommend staying at Chem Chem at the end, so you can end your experience with a few days in this beautiful sanctuary surrounded by nature before you return home. Please do get in touch with me or my staff to learn more about Chem Chem and how we can combine this with other locations to create you a unique safari experience.

WRITTEN BY
Cliff D'Souza
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